Apparently taking my protagonist horse shopping worked, because the writing went very well last night. I have a feeling I overdid the exposition, but that's what rewriting is for. At least the words flowed smoothly onto the page, and my hero felt fleshly (but not fleshy!) rather than wooden.
I think there's something about getting away from pure words and giving your imagination some visual or auditory cues to work with. Maybe I should try collaging as Jennifer Crusie recommends, or at the very least work on a soundtrack for the WIP. I had one for The Sergeant's Lady, and I swear it helped me write better and keep my characters' emotions to the fore, which is not one of my natural strengths.